Animal Crossing: Isabelle

Update Aug 15, 2020: I've added a variation to the pattern for those who want to make the New Horizons version of Isabelle. Enjoy!

I hate to admit it, but it took me a long time to finally get around to playing Animal Crossing: New Leaf. It came out the summer before I started university, so I wasn't exactly keen on spending money! Instead, I just stuck with my tried and true Wild World.

Still, when Isabelle first appeared I was instantly in love! Not only does she look adorable, her personality is just so lovable. When I finally got New Leaf in the summer of 2019, I fell in love with her all over again.

Isabelle sits at about 5.5" (14 cm) tall and can balance on her own if you're careful about the placement of her tail and legs. She has a lot of small, cute details, but you could probably cut some of them out if you don't have the right coloured yarn.

The pattern here is free, but if you'd rather have a printable version or if you'd like to throw a little support my way, I have a printable PDF available on Ravelry for the tiny sum of a single toonie!

This pattern features two different versions based on what Isabelle you’d like to make. For the most part, the instructions are the same. The only differences are in the body, arms, and legs. Even then, the only differences are in the colour of yarns used.

The New Leaf version is more complicated because of Isabelle’s shirt and the colour changes required in it. It also requires more different colours of yarn. But, otherwise, the patterns are nearly identical.

When there are differences, follow the NL or NH instruction then move on to the next section.

Here's some quick guff on the ways you can use my pattern:

• do not redistribute the pattern - just link to this page
• your results are free for personal use - but I ask that you don't sell your finished product. just hand them out as gifts, ok? your friends will love you for it

With that out of the way, on to the pattern!

ad

Materials

• Size E (3.5mm) Crochet Hook
• Worsted Weight Yarn
  • I used Red Heart Super Saver in:
  • Both NL and NH:
    • Gold
    • Cornmeal
    • Soft White
    • Cherry Red
    • Black
  • NL:
    • Spring Green
    • Hunter Green
    • Blue
  • NH:
    • Light Raspberry
    • Coffee
• Yarn Needle
• Stuffing
• 2 Small Bells
• Red Thread
• Sewing Needle

Abbreviations

• ch – chain
• sc – single crochet
• hdc – half double crochet
• dc – double crochet
• tr – treble crochet
• inc – two single crochet in same stitch
• dec – invisible decrease
• sc3tog – sc 3 together
• ss – slip stitch
• cc – colour change
• blo – back loop only

Techniques

I have a useful guide on all the different techniques I use when I make amigurumi. Obviously, you should stick with whatever techniques you are comfortable with when making amigurumi, but I still recommend checking it out if you wanna get a result as close to mine as possible!

Head Tuft 1

We’ll start by making the small head (hair?) tuft first. Starting in dark yellow (Red Heart Super Saver Gold).

Rnd 1: sc 6 in magic ring. (TINY SEAM: ss to first sc, sc ONLY when starting next round) (6 sc)
Rnd 2: (sc, dc, sc) around (twice). cc to to yellow (Red Heart Super Saver Cornmeal) using round beginning colour change. (6 sts)
Rnd 3: (dc, sc, sc) around. (6 sts)

Fasten off with a short tail to be hidden later.

Head Tuft 2

Now we’ll make the second tuft and attach it to the other at the end. Starting in dark yellow:

Rnd 1: sc 6 in magic ring. (6 sc)
Rnd 2: inc around. (12 sc)
Rnd 3: (sc, dc, sc, ss) around. cc to yellow using round beginning colour change. (12 sts)
Rnd 4: sc, ss, (sc, dc, sc, ss) twice, sc, dc. (12 sts)
Rnd 5: dec around. (6 sc)

Now we’ll attach this tuft the other tuft.

sc around. Instead of ss to first, ss to the first of the other tuft.

sc in that same stitch. you might want to mark it for later, as it is easy to mistake it for the ss

sc around, then ss to the first st of the first tuft. Now the tufts are attached. Use a small piece of yarn to tie closed the space between the two tufts.

Stuff the end of the tufts. Then we’ll continue on with the head.

Head

Rnd 1: dec around. (6 sc) - Watch out for the ss between the two tufts, it can be easy to mistake it for a sc.
Rnd 2: sc around (6 sc)
Rnd 3: inc around (12 sc)
Rnd 4: (sc, inc) around. (18 sc)

Finish stuffing the tufts.

Rnd 5: (sc 2, inc) around. (24 sc)
Rnd 6: (sc 3, inc) around. (30 sc)
Rnd 7-8 (x2): sc around. (30 sc)
Rnd 9: sc 13, cc to white (Red Heart Super Saver Soft White), sc 4, cc to yellow, sc 13. (30 sc)
Rnd 10: sc 11, cc to white, sc 8, cc to yellow, sc 11. (30 sc)
Rnd 11: sc 10, cc to white, sc 10, cc to yellow, sc 10. (30 sc)
Rnd 12: (sc 3, dec) twice, cc to white, sc 3, dec 2, sc 3, cc to yellow and drop white, dec, sc 6, dec. (24 sc)
Rnd 13: BLO: (sc 2, dec) around. (18 sc)
Rnd 14: BLO: (sc, dec) around, then
   NL: cc to light green (Red Heart Super Saver Spring Green) using round beginning colour change. (12 sc)
   NH: cc to pink (Red Heart Super Saver Light Raspberry) using round beginning colour change. (12 sc)

Stuff the head.

Now you will proceed with the body based on what version you’re following.

Body - NL

Rnd 1: sc 5, cc to dark green (Red Heart Super Saver Hunter Green), sc, cc to white, sc 2, cc to dark green and drop white, sc, cc to light green, sc 3. (12 sc)
Rnd 2: sc 5, cc to dark green, sc 4, cc to light green, sc 3. (sc 12)
Rnd 3: (sc, inc) 3 times, cc to dark green, sc 2, cc to light green, inc, sc, inc 2. (18 sc)
Rnd 4-6 (x3): sc 9, cc to dark green, sc 2, cc to light green, sc 7. (18 sc)

On the last repeat, drop dark green after cc and cc to blue (Red Heart Super Saver Blue) using round beginning colour change. Drop light green.

Rnd 7-8 (x2): sc around. (18 sc)
Rnd 9: BLO: sc around. (18 sc)
Rnd 10: BLO: (sc, dec) around. (12 sc)

Stuff the body.

Rnd 11: dec around.

Fasten off and do a weaving finish.

Body - NH

Rnd 1-2 (x2): sc around. (12 sc)
Rnd 3: (sc inc) around. (18 sc)
Rnd 4-6 (x3): sc around. (18 sc)

On last repeat, drop pink and cc to white using round beginning colour change.

Rnd 7-8 (x2): sc around. (18 sc)
Rnd 9: BLO: sc around. (18 sc)
Rnd 10: BLO: (sc, dec) around. (12 sc)

Stuff the body.

Rnd 11: dec around. (6sc)

Fasten off and do a weaving finish.

Skirt

Rnd 1: Attach blue yarn (NL) or white yarn (NH) to the front loop of the BLO sc row (I attached close to the seam).

sc in that same stitch. sc around. (18 sc)

Rnd 2: sc around. (18 sc)

Fasten off and hide the tail.

Fringe

Using yellow.

Row 1: ch 7. inc in 2^nd ch from hook, sc 4, inc. (8 sc)
Row 2: ch 2, turn. hdc, dc, hdc, sc 2, hdc, dc, hdc. (8 sts)
Row 3: ch 2, turn. dc, tr, dc, ss, ss, dc, tr, dc. (8 sts)

Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing. Bring the tail to the top of the fringe through the side of the stitches, like so:

Ears

Using dark yellow. Make 2.

Rnd 1: ch 6, sc in 2^nd ch from hook, sc 3, 3 sc in last, rotate to work along back of chs, sc 3, 2 sc in last. (12 sc)
Rnd 2: inc, sc 3, inc in each of next 3, sc 3, inc in each of next 2. (18 sc)
Rnd 3-5 (x3): sc around.
Rnd 6: dec, sc 3, dec 3, sc 3, dec 2. (12 sc)
Rnd 7-8 (x2): sc around.
Rnd 9: sc 4, sc3tog, sc 3, dec. (9 sc)
Rnd 10-11 (x2): sc around. (9 sc)

Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing.

Stuff the ear, stuffing heavily at the bottom but only lightly near the top.

Now we’ll use a piece of yarn to create the bumps of the ear.

Mark two stitches, between 6 and 7 rows from the top, with 2 stitches between.

Push the needle through the ear, then loop the yarn around the end and pull until a small tail is left and a bump forms.

Push through the stitch again and bring the yarn back to the front in the same spot as before. Pull tightly and tie a knot with the leftover tail. Hide this tail.

Get to the next marked stitch like so.

Repeat the process to create another bump. Tie another knot and hide the tail.

The ears will looks like this when finished.

Arms

Starting in yellow. Make 2.
Rnd 1: sc 6 in magic circle. (6 sc)
Rnd 2-4 (x3): sc around. (6 sc)
   NL: cc to white using round beginning colour change on the last repeat.
   NH: cc to pink using round beginning colour change on the last repeat.
Rnd 5-6 (x2): sc around. (6 sc)

Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing. Stuff the bottom heavily, tapering off until there is little to no stuffing at the top.

Legs

NL: In yellow. Make 2.
Rnd 1: sc 6 in magic circle. (6 sc)

NH: In brown (Red Heart Super Saver Coffee). Make 2.
Rnd 1: sc 6 in magic circle. (6 sc) cc to yellow using round beginning colour change.

Both:
Rnd 2-6 (x5): sc around. (6 sc)

Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing. Stuff the bottom heavily, tapering off until there is little to no stuffing at the top.

Tail

Starting in white.

Rnd 1: sc 3 in magic circle. (3 sc)
Rnd 2: inc around around. cc to yellow using round beginning colour change. (6 sc)
Rnd 3: in BLO, sc 3. in both loops, sc 3. (6 sc)
Rnd 4-5 (x2): sc around.(6 sc)

Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing. Stuff heavily, using the BLO portion to curl the tail upwards. You can add more stuffing as you’re sewing the tail on to keep everything plump.

ad

Sewing on Parts

Mark the row directly beneath the thinnest part of the tufts, 6 stitches apart. Use the white part to centre it. You will end up sewing between a sc 6 row and an increased sc 12 row. There isn’t a right or wrong side of the fringe, so just choose a side and sew along the foundation chains. Sew it like so:

For the ears,

Mark a spot 2 rows beneath where you attached the fringe, in line with the fringe edge and 4 stitches apart.

Do the same for the other ear as well. There will be about 5-6 stitches between both ears around the back.

If you would like to ensure that the ears stick close to Isabelle’s head, here’s a few extra steps you can do with before you cut the tail after sewing on the ear.

After you’ve sewn along the top of the ear, exit through the head between 3-4 rows from where the ear was sewn on, on one side of a stitch that will be roughly in the middle of the ear when it lays flat.

Enter the ear, about 5-6 rows down from the top in the stitch that will be the centre when the ears lay flat.

Re-enter the head to form a loop. When you pull tight, the ear will lay flat.

Repeat the steps again to make another loop then tie a knot and hide the end.

NL – Arms: Sew over the second row of light green, starting at the stitch beside the dark green, 3 stitches wide. Do the same for the other side.

NH – Arms: Line up four stitches on the body with the top four stitches of Isabelle’s white face patch. Mark the stitch on either side, then place another marker 3 stitches away. Sew over the second row of the body.

Roll up the skirt to expose the second BLO row. This is where we’ll attach the legs.

For NL, line up two centre stitches with the dark green stripe and mark the stitch on either side.

For NH, mark the stitches that align with the edges of the four empty stitches between the arms.

Mark 3 stitches away from each. Attach the legs here.

Mark the two stitches along the bottom of skirt aligned with the gap between the legs. Sew two stitches of the tail in the top and bottom of the marked space, with one stitch on each side. The top will end up being sewn where the skirt was joined to the body. Before finishing sewing, you could try testing Isabelle’s balance to see if she can sit on her own.

Embroidering

Use these placements to embroider on the face. The bottom of the eyes are two switches away from the first white part, stretching three stitches tall. That means the top is right flush/under the fringe. I went over the eyes three times to get them nice and big.

The nose will be between the first two rows of white, 2 stitches wide in the middle. I also went over the nose three times.

The mouth is a simple v shape. Each corner starts 1 diagonal away from the edge of the nose, between the second and third row of white. The middle of the mouth is a row lower than that in the middle of the space between the edges.

Ribbons

Wrap a length of red yarn twice around the thin part of the tufts. Tie a knot. You can hide the ends of the knot in the body.

Because my small bells were too small to fit my yarn needle through, I used a bit of sewing thread to attach two of them on Isabelle’s right side. I recommend running the thread through the two bells first then tying a knot before attaching to Isabelle, just so that the bells don’t slide around while you’re working.

For the final NL touch:

Pull a piece of red yarn in half. Basically, reducing the strand count from 4 down to 2. Alternatively, if you had a smaller size red yarn, you could use that.

Run your yarn needle through the white stitches of the shirt.

Tie a small bow using the yarn, then trim the edges.

And you're done!

I hope you enjoyed making Isabelle! Hopefully she'll be with you whether you're running a town or an island! If you'd like to keep crocheting, you can check out some more of my free patterns here.